Fall In Love With Your Curls – Module 4

Module 4 – Detox and Long Term Build-Up

Welcome to the fourth module!

This is where we bring out the big guns for those of you that are still struggling to see the results you hoped you would have by this point.

Whether you think you have long term build-up or not, I encourage youto give the strategies in this module a try, I think you will be surprised by the space you can create in your hair for water by integrating a clarifying or chelating wash into your routine every few months.

Foe those of you with definitely long term build-up you may want to try these strategies weekly at first, to break through the build-up initially, and then ease off of them over time until you are able to maintain your hair without them for several months.

As always, be sure to share your journey and results in our Facebook Group so that we can follow along!

Xoxo – Lo

The training video for this module is coming soon!

Remember what we learned about products? Even the best hair care products in the world are designed to build up on the hair. It’s how they work.

The good news is cleansing removes them…mostly.

The bad news is that when it comes down to it, most gentle (read: ‘cgm friendly’) cleansing products (read: shampoo, hair rinse, hair bath, etc.) don’t remove all CGM friendly conditioners and stylers. In fact very few products, not to mention our unique environments and hard water compounds, are fully and completely removed by their “matching” cleanser creating the perfect conditions for slow forming, or what we like to call, Long Term Build-Up.

You know that feeling when you switch to a brand new product and it works wonders? You LOVE it…but 6 months later it’s lost it’s luster?

That is long term build-up. Not your hair, not that you found something better. It’s build-up.

It’s just like the build-up we’ve been talking about, it’s just not ever leaving the hair. In-between wash days (or in spite of them) these compounds stay in the hair, getting pushed in deeper and deeper, drying out and crystallizing each time the hair dries out or dehydrates.

With each passing day the build-up becomes harder and harder to remove.

Now the conversation, when we talk about build-up, should change.

Rather than wonder which products do and do not build-up, what we actually need to know is what cleansing products we need in our arsenal to remove what life has to offer us.

I, for example, have found Innersense Hydrating Hair bath to be my primary cleanser especially when I used all Innersense products.

When I stray and play and use other products, I often find the Pure Hair Bath works better for me.

When I am exposed to exceptionally hard or chemically treated water, such as in different cities, swimming pools or hot tubs, I reach for something more.

…but what is more?

Something more is when I know my hair is still fighting to take on hydration even after I cleanse. It’s when I know my hair can soften more softer but there isn’t enough space inside or that water is still being blocked out.

Strategies to Speed Up Detox

More aggressive cleansers, typically known as Clarifiers or Chelators are what I lik to call Cleansing Treatments. They can remove long term product, hard water or environmentally induced build-up from the hair.

With more aggressive cleansers of these kind are more damaging and therefore should be used with more caution and intention. They are used to accomplish a simple goal; to create space for water and encourage more softening and clumping while conditioning.

Here are a few of my favorite cleansing treatments that I encourage you experimnt with once a week or every other week for the remainder of this course to see what kind of space you can create.

Clarifiers

Innersense Detox Mask

The Innersense Detox Mask is new, and for me has far surpassed the performance and protection of the Clarification strategies listed on this page.

It’s gentle yet aggressive, and in just a few uses can remove build-up even the worst cases of build-up I’ve seen.

This Detox Mask uses three main ingredients:
Charcoal: a gentle detoxifier and helps to draw out dirt, toxins and impurities from the hair and scalp.
Kaolin Clay: a soft white clay named after the hill in China (Kao-ling) from which it was mined for centuries. This dynamic clay helps remove excess oil, dirt and product build up from hair and scalp.
Organic White Vinegar: a clarifier that helps to increase shine, balance pH and reduce frizz and hair porosity.

Together with the conditioning combination of Behentrimonium methosulfate and Cetearyl alcohol, considered the mildest conditioning, ingredient duo available today, the hair is left completely clean without the dry, hard hand feel commonly associated with clarifications.

Use a Hersey Kiss size amount and work into the scalp and roots first, massaging deeply and making sure to cover all of the hair. Then rake through the length.

For deeper clarification, let the mask sit on the hair for 5-10 minutes.

You can watch a full demonstration of a build-up removal session with one of my very best friends, in real time in the Bonus Section of this course.

Link: https://consciouslycurly.com/fall-in-love-with-your-curls-bonuses/#ultimate-innersense-detox

Bentonite Clay Mask

Bentonite has been used for thousands of years by the Aztecs and Egyptians as a skin, hair and digestive detox.

The clay itself is super versatile, I’ve seen it used in hundreds of DIY recipes including face masks, toothpaste, skin & under arm detox, deodorant, and now a hair mask!

I have been hearing a LOT about Bentonite Clay as a hair cleansing treatment, so this week I gave one a try.

I mixed in a glass bowl (avoid stainless & metal) until it was the consistency of cottage cheese and went to town!:

1/3 cup of Bentonite Clay
1/4 cup Aloe Gera Gel
2 TBSP Water
2 TBSP Apple Cider Vinegar

Once the mask is applied you can leave it in for 5-20 minutes, though if you leave it in for longer than 5, I would put your hair up in a plastic shower cap.

The idea is to not let the clay dry, because it makes it more difficult to remove.

I spent about 5 minutes rinsing this mask out with warm water and then followed up with a deep conditioning treatment that I braided into my hair.

The clay reacts with the ACV to create a super alkaline and negitive polarity mask that is incredibly effective in removing heavy metals, minerals and compounds for our hair detox.

I found this treatment to be highly effective, and just a bit more aggressive than the Ascorbic Acid and Malibu C Hard Water Treatments, but not as hard as the Malibu C Un-Do-Goo.

I have yet to test it’s effectiveness on product build-up, but I’ll totally play around with that and report back to you ladies!

Apple Cider Vinegar Rinse

Malibu C Un-Do-Goo

Malibu C Un-Do-Goo is the product I currently recommend for targeting long term product induced build-up.

What is unique about product build-up is that much of it is chemically designed (by humans) to get into the hair and stay there forever. You can imaging how it may be very difficult to remove.

You use it just like a shampoo, after you saturate and before/instead of cleansing.

While this product is sulfate free, it does contain Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate which has similarly irritating to the skin and can be potentially drying to the hair. It also contains several other ingredients I do not recommend, including Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium EDTA, Polyquaternium 10, PEG 120, Phenoxyethanol and Fragrance, among others.

I recommend it here only because oftentimes the other options suggested include terrible and cheap sulfate shampoos (including Suave) that are much worse.

You can watch a full demonstration of a build-up removal session with one of my very best friends, in real time in the Bonus Section of this course.

Link: https://consciouslycurly.com/fall-in-love-with-your-curls-bonuses/#detox-example

Chelators

Chelators are a special kind of clarifier that are specifically designed to target build-up from hard water, including minerals and heavy metals.

Over 70% of the water that comes out to the tap in the United States is considered hard, and it’s only getting harder. If you aren’t sure about the water quality in your area and want to start digging I recommend starting with the EWG Tap Water Database.

If you have tried clarifying and aren’t getting the results you were hoping for, using a chelator may help.

Innersense Scalp Scrub

The Innersense True Enlightenment Scalp Scrub is the new kid on the block when it comes to build-up remover, but I find it works wonders on the build-up I get from my chemically treated hot tub.

Due to the pandemic I have not had the chance to experiment with it’s use as a hard water or product build-up remover, but either way its a delightful addition to my cleansing routine and I have started using it weekly.

You can watch a full demonstration of a build-up removal session with one of my very best friends, in real time in the Bonus Section of this course.

Link: https://consciouslycurly.com/fall-in-love-with-your-curls-bonuses/#scalp-scrub-demo

Ascorbic Acid

Think of Ascorbic Acid as the more natural DIY approach to cleansing the hair that is bothh taught and practiced in the Curly Hair Artistry, one of th top curly hair training programs out there.

I have seen this treatment remove hard or chemically treated water, and even mild cases of product, build-up from the hair with ease.

I like to insert the Ascorbic Acid Treatment in-between Saturating and Cleansing my hair, mixing roughly on tablespoon with a conditioner, co-wash or cleanser, emulsifying well, and work in deeply using massaging, raking, roping and scrunching to gently exfoliate for at least 60 seconds.

Then rinse thoroughly and follow up with a gentle cleanser, or skip right to conditioning.

Malibu C Hard Water Wellness

Though I personally have had no issues using the Ascorbic Acid of Scalp Scrub for the hard or chemically treated water in my life, Malibu C Hard Water Wellness is the true and tried hard water build-up remover. It’s literally designed for it.

What is unique about hard water is that the dissolved solids, heavy metals and other compounds vary greatly based on location, so it’s worthwhile to mention another tool for the job in case you are looking for something more.

You use it just like a shampoo, after you saturate and before/instead of cleansing.

While this product is sulfate free, it does contain Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate which has similarly irritating to the skin and can be potentially drying to the hair. It also contains several other ingredients I do not recommend, including PEG-120, Disodium EDTA, PEG-16, Polyquaternium 10, Phenoxyethanol and Fragrance, among others.

I recommend it here only because oftentimes the other options suggested include terrible and cheap sulfate shampoos that are much worse.

You can watch a full demonstration of a build-up removal session with one of my very best friends, in real time in the Bonus Section of this course.

Link: https://consciouslycurly.com/fall-in-love-with-your-curls-bonuses/#detox-example

Products I Recommend

Chelators

Clarifiers

Some points to remember:

  • I do not recommend using an ‘aggressive’ cleanser more than once a week, ideally once a month or even less.
  • It is, however, common it use it more often in the beginning and transition away from its regular use once several layers of build-up have been removed.
  • It is very likely that using a more aggressive cleanser just once will not be enough. Feel free to revisit these deeply cleansing styling strategies and cleansers when you needing them, understanding that you are introducing damage to your hair that makes things more complicated in the long term.
  • The point here is to not be blindly dependent on product. Notice your hair and how it looks and feels when it hydrated vs when it’s fighting hydration. Learning this difference is your new #1 objective.

Homework:

Repeat the homework from last week, but this time doing a clarifying or chelating cleansing treatment before your normal cleanser on wash day.

Instructions

  1. Wait longer than normal, 3-7 days if you can, before you wash your hair. Try and push the envelope here. If you are used to washing your hair everyday, try going two or three days. If you are used to washing every three or four days, try five or seven.

    Feel free to shower as often as you like. Play around with wet refreshing and co-washing or protecting your hair in a plop/shower cap, whatever feels good to you day by day.
  2. Repeat the homework from week one during the saturation step. Before you use any cleanser or product focus on hydration and follow these steps:
    • Get your hair wet for 90 seconds, turn off the water and take a photo.
    • Wait 60 seconds and take a photo.
    • Work hydration for 90 seconds, turn off the water and take a photo
    • Wait 60 seconds and take a photo

      This is your hair when it is fighting hydration (more than normal).
  3. Cleanse your hair deeply using one of th cleansing treatments we discussed this week and then follow up using using your normal cleanser.
    • As you cleanse (and especially afterward) notice what your hair looks and feels like.

      This is your hair VERY clean, naked and dehydrated with the cuticle lifted
  4. Repeat the homework from week one again, but this time with conditioner in your hair
    • Get your hair soaking wet for 90 seconds, turn off the water and take a photo.
    • Wait 60 seconds and take a photo.
    • Work conditioner in for 90 seconds, turn off the water and take a photo
    • Wait 60 seconds and take a photo

      This is your hair when it easily accepts hydration (compared to step 2)

Journal Prompts

  • What did extending the days between wash days change about how your hair accepts water during Saturation?
    • Was there more or less frizz?
    • Did it feel smoother or more coarse?
    • What conclusions can you draw based on what you saw and felt?
  • What happened after you washed your hair with a more aggressive cleanser?
    • Was there more or less frizz?
    • Did it feel smoother or more coarse?
    • What conclusions can you draw based on what you saw and felt?
  • What happened after your conditioned your hair after the cleansing treatment?
    • Was there more or less frizz?
    • Did it feel smoother or more coarse?
    • What conclusions can you draw based on what you saw and felt?

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